Food & Drink

ROMAN TAPAS AND GRILL, N7

24 June 2010

ROMAN TAPAS AND GRILL, N7

ROMAN Way is one of those roads that the world forgot. Despite being surrounded by large council estates, there seems to be a strange lack of people.

The speed bumps and seemingly ever-growing potholes make drivers and cyclists a rarity too.

And the piece de resistance is Pentonville Prison, casting its monstrous concrete shadow over the deserted street.

One of the most depressing sights I have witnessed was a drunk lady screaming at the prison in the early hours, begging an inmate to bring her boyfriend to the window because she wanted to speak to him.

Until now, the only bright spot has been the Hemingford Arms, standing at the junction with Offord Road with its flowery frontage hinting at the delights ahead as you cross from Holloway into Barnsbury.

Finally though, there is something else to attract visitors.

Roman Tapas and Grill opened two months ago but already it has caused quite a stir in the area.

With its open kitchen, stylish interior, cheap bites and tables out front bathed in the evening sunshine, this is every inch the authentic tapas bar.

There are salads, steaks and paella, but most people drop in because the tapas is sensational.

Two huge plates of gambas and calamari were beautifully fresh and bursting with flavour. The tortilla was delightfully light with an almost melt in the mouth texture. The patatas bravas had a slightly barbecued taste which gave it an interesting extra kick. While the spicy tomato aioli, crème fraiche and sweet chilli dipping sauces which accompany many of the dishes are a nice touch.

Save room for dessert though, because the tarte tatin in particular is sublime.

It's early days, but with Roman Way crying out for a makeover, and Barnsbury as a whole crying out for a tapas restaurant, this could just be a match made in heaven. - ROB BLEANEY

Tapas: from £2.90

Wines: from £10.90

Children welcome: Yes

Disabled access: Yes

ROMAN TAPAS AND GRILL

Roman Way, N7

020 7609 8034