Travel
12 January 2010
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| The Katajanokka district of the Finnish capital. |
NOTHING ever tastes as good as when you've been hurtling across ice at top speeds or have thrown yourself in freezing water.
For extreme winter-sports fans, it is no surprise that Finland has a whole host of treats in store. But not so many people know about the Scandinavian culinary delights.
I took a trip to the capital, Helsinki, to sample both activities in -14° temperatures. Whether you visit in summer or winter, you can have a go at the national sport, cross country skiing, at the recently opened Yllas Centre on the outskirts of town. Thanks to climate change, it is not always winter now but there is year-round snow and ice for cross country, curling, skating, snow tubing and sledging. More activities are planned for 2010 with ice bars, saunas and mountain biking routes for visitors.
If you haven't tried cross country before, have a lesson to get you up on your skis - the sport is a great calorie burner and easy to learn.
Another popular Finnish pastime is walking on frozen lakes and rivers - an exhilarating winter experience. In February, this should also be possible in Helsinki harbour, as the Baltic Sea freezes. But for a real thrill, try ice surfing - windsurfing on the slippery stuff. Speeds of 70 miles an hour can be reached so be sure to put on thermals and pack a spare pair of pants.
After some ice skating outside the railway station, we headed to the Juuri restaurant to try sapas - small Finnish appetisers with traditional Scandinavian elements. Finnish cuisine is based on a lot of foraging and seasonal produce. While it is not fine dining, there is real emphasis on combining fresh flavours. The lingonberry marinated salmon on malt bread, the smoked reindeer heart with wine gelée and the smoked vendace (small fish found in Karelia, near the Russian border) were delicious. Expect to find plenty of reindeer here cooked in all forms with cranberry sauce.
Reindeer stew is popular after an ice swim - not for the fainthearted but definitely worth trying. At various lakes, holes are carved out, and after you have roasted in the sauna, it is time to run out into the snow and jump in the freezing water. The Finns swear by it as an immune system booster, stress buster and natural buzz.
The next day, we took in some of Helsinki's design highlights - an attractive quarter housing the Design Museum, Design Forum and various shops. The Kiasma Museum houses young international artists' work.
Our last culinary stop was Fishmarket, a chic restaurant near Esplanadi Park in the city centre. Seafood platters are its speciality and the herring ice cream to start is an unusual treat.
For those looking for adventure on snow or on menus there is plenty here, so come with a big appetite.