Travel
20 April 2010
ALL your senses come to life in Morocco with its colourful and enchanting scenery and architecture, culinary delights and mystical smells.
To start your orientation in the north African country, stay in a riad within the medina in the old imperial city of Marrakech. Riads are traditional houses abandoned by rich families when they moved to other cities across the country. More than 1,000 have now been restored as a more homely escape for travellers to enjoy traditional architecture and surroundings.
Richard Branson's sister Vanessa's Riad El Fenn is a magical place to spend a few days relaxing in secret, cosy corners hidden among courtyards, on its sun-drenched roof terrace or by one of several pools in lush gardens.
The riad is all about understated elegance, but while it is quite easy to spend several days relaxing, it is minutes away from the bustling souks and shops that make Marrakech famous.
A journey round the labyrinth of souks is a feast for the senses, with different areas reserved for different trades including woodwork, metalwork, ceramics and silk. It is loud, sometimes dirty and smelly here and interactive in every way.
If you take a guide, you won't be able to avoid an encounter with a carpet seller - everyone here still takes you to their brother's shop but a friendly no is normally enough to politely decline. Haggling is essential - expect it to take a good half an hour while you sip mint tea above the souk with the proprietor.
I also swapped clothes for gifts and he took rather a liking to my mobile phone and camera, for which I was offered a carpet in exchange. A visit to a traditional Berber herbal pharmacy will promise cures for everything from insomnia to relationship problems.
Morocco is a foodie's dream with fresh fruit and vegetables and meat found all over the country - I only saw one supermarket in a week's visit. At night, the main square, Djemaa El Fna, comes alive with musicians, acrobats and storytellers. Smells of tagine, traditional Moroccan soups and pastillas waft out among waves of smoke emanating from cheerful street vendors. The people in Morocco are exceptionally happy and friendly.
To escape the frenetic atmosphere of Marrakech, a visit to the coastal trading port of Essaouira will provide you with a more chilled experience. The town was a favourite of Jimi Hendrix in the 60s hippy era and there are plenty of fun art galleries to explore now among the whitewashed buildings.
A word of warning though - Essaouira is known as the windy city and trying to walk round the old ramparts, designed by a French architect profoundly influenced by the French port of St Malo, was hard.
Don't leave Essaouira without a visit to the fish grill stalls near the port. You can choose from many kinds of species laid out in front of you and the chef will cook it all up on a grill and serve it simply with fresh bread and salad. We ate well for about £7 each.
Morocco is an adventure waiting to be explored and its magic will penetrate right through your senses.
TRAVEL TIPS
GETTING THERE
Flights to Marrakech from Gatwick with Royal Air Maroc, Luton and Stansted with Ryanair, Easyjet from Gatwick.
WHERE TO STAY
Riad El Fenn
www.riadelfenn.com Tel 212 524 44 1210, Prices from £240 to £495 per night for a double room, including breakfast and transfers.
FIND OUT MORE
Atlas and Sahara Tours provide guides across Morocco, including Marrakesh, as well as transfers. Phone: +212 668 85 10 01. E-mail: info@atlasandsaharatours.com
www.atlasandsaharatours.com
Moroccan National Tourist Office www.visitmorocco.com